A shocking revelation has emerged, exposing the involvement of at least 19 international brands, including industry giants like Adidas and Walmart, in using waste to fuel kilns in Cambodian brick factories. A report by the Cambodian League for the Promotion and Defense of Human Rights (LICADHO) has raised concerns about the impact of burning pre-consumer garment waste on workers’ health and the environment.
The LICADHO report identifies the following brands: Adidas, C&A, Cropp and Sinsay under LPP, Disney, Gap, Old Navy, Athleta, Karbon, Kiabi, Lululemon Athletica, Lupilu under Lidl Stiftung & Co, No Boundaries under Walmart, Primark, Reebok, Sweaty Betty, Tilley Endurables, Under Armour, and Venus Fashion.
The LICADHO report, based on visits to 21 brick factories in Phnom Penh and Kandal province, revealed that seven factories were burning pre-consumer garment waste, including fabric, plastic, rubber, and other materials from major brands. The factories reportedly resorted to this practice to save on fuel costs, raising questions about the ethical and environmental implications of such actions.
According to the report, workers at these factories have reported headaches, respiratory problems, and other illnesses attributed to the burning of garment waste. One worker even mentioned feeling especially unwell during pregnancies. The release of toxic substances during the combustion process, as highlighted by a 2020 study by the U.N. Development Programme, poses serious health risks, including the potential for cancer-causing dioxins.
A 2018 report by UK academics at Royal Holloway, University of London, noted that clothing scraps often contain toxic chemicals such as chlorine bleach, formaldehyde, ammonia, heavy metals, PVC, and resins used in dyeing and printing processes. The exposure of brick factory workers to these harmful substances has led to complaints of migraines, nosebleeds, and other health issues.
Several brands named in the LICADHO report have expressed concern and initiated investigations. Adidas, which sources from 16 factories in Cambodia, stated that it is investigating if waste is being diverted from authorized disposal routes to brick kilns. Adidas emphasized its environmental policies, which mandate the proper disposal of waste at approved waste-to-energy plants or government-licensed recycling centers.
The LICADHO report has prompted calls for accountability from the implicated brands. While some have pledged investigations and increased awareness, others, including Sweaty Betty, have not directly addressed the specific findings but emphasize compliance with environmental codes of conduct.
The exposure of international brands using waste to fuel kilns in Cambodian brick factories has raised serious concerns about the impact on workers’ health and the environment. As investigations unfold, there is a growing need for greater transparency and accountability in the global fashion industry to ensure the responsible disposal of waste and safeguard the well-being of workers in the supply chain
(Source: Clare Baldwin | Helen Reid | Katherine Masters | Miral Fahmy | Reuters)
